Dave Fortier's Tip Top Gem blog

Dear Readers,

I must apologize for neglecting my blog, but I have been enjoying Dave Fortier's posts and he has most kindly given me permission to repost his most recent one. Especially note his interesting slices of tourmaline crystals!

The show circuit is in full force

We are delighted to welcome the nice people from the Southfield, Michigan Intergem show- where Melanie and I displayed two weekends ago. Welcome aboard everyone!!! Melanie and I are trying to get in touch with those of you who left your e-mail with us either with this newsletter or via Facebook. We show gemstones and jewelry on Facebook as well as in the newsletter, and in our online store. Take a look at what we have- there are links to the left of this article.

For those of you who have never been to a gem and jewelry show, Melanie and I very highly recommend it! You can see a wide range of stones that you would not see elsewhere, compare prices, ask questions to dealers in person, and most important- evaluate stones in real life instead of from a picture. I can not begin to tell you how many stones I have shown in the newsletter or on Facebook that created no interest but sold immediately on the first day of a show. I can say things like "this gemstone has 90% brilliance" but until you hold such a stone in your hand, you can not imagine the sparkle. Check out a show near you!!!



As we prepare for the buying trip to Thailand we need to know what you are looking for- ruby, sapphire, collectible stones, or any other custom jewelry projects that you've been thinking about. I will be in both Chanthaburi and Bangkok next week- so be sure you let us know what we can help you find.

As many of you already know, I offer the very best prices on ruby and sapphire because I go directly to the source and you do not have to pay me to keep these expensive stones in inventory! Any dealer that you see who has expensive stones in inventory will have higher prices. He has to. Business always functions on three "concepts of cash"- money in, money out, and TIME. The longer a dealer has to wrap up his cash, the more he will have to get out of that stone.

If you bought something from us at the Southfield, Michigan show you are eligible for Inner Circle membership. If you click on the link below, you will see stones for sale and you will see prices. But you will not see INNER CIRCLE pricing!!! If you want to make sure you see the very best prices that we offer, just send me a note asking for an upgrade. You can e-mail me at dave@tiptopgem.com or just call me at 800-607-1425. That toll-free number always rings to my cell, whether I am here or in Thailand. If you go to tiptopgem.com, you will see clocks that show local time in Thailand- generally if it is late or early here in the states it is a good time to call. The middle of the day in the states is the middle of the night in Thailand and you will get my voicemail. Do not hesitate to contact me if you need something or if you have a question!

Tip Top Gem ONLINE STORE

The stunning images you see in this newsletter, by the way, are CAD renderings of a ring that we are making for a client. She found a wonderful design in a magazine while vacationing in the Caribbean and asked if I could tweak it to her tastes and proportion it to a gemstone that she had purchased from me- a sphene from Madagascar. As always the answer is "of course"!!!! We love doing projects like this- actually creating a piece of heirloom-quality jewelry to our clients' specifications. It is one of the most pleasurable and interesting parts of this business- almost as much fun as buying stones at the largest gemstone market in the world in Chanthaburi, Thailand!!!!

Because I am not exactly sure when I will return from Thailand I can't tell you the next show we will do, but please keep an eye open for the April newsletter as that will have details. Also remember if you are my friend on Facebook (find a link in the upper left corner of this newsletter to go to my profile and add me) you will not only know what show we are about to do but you will also see gemstones that are available nowhere else...my Facebook friends always know first!

Our Entrepreneurs ROCK!!!

Take a look at yet another of our blazing-fast repayments on Kiva. These people are proving their focus, determination, and integrity over and over and over again. Please, please support Kiva.org. They are worth it! You can NOT help anyone out of poverty with a handout. These people are not asking for one. They want a loan- which they pay back with interest- but the interest goes to the local field partner to service the loan. Your principal is paid back to you and you can loan it out over and over and over again.

Melanie and I started this program specifically to help people in the source countries where our gemstones are mined. To date we have helped entrepreneurs in these countries:

Over on the left you will see a link to Kiva.org- please check them out now. Or just buy a stone or order a piece of custom jewelry from us. The better we do, the more support we can provide to hard-working, honest people in the third world who want to pursue the growth of their business and support their families. After decades of handouts in the third world that only teach people how to extend their hand, microfinance has found a way to help people without charity.

All our best,



PS- It is as easy as ever to get in touch with us. Our toll-free
number has never changed and rings to my cell: 800-607-1425. If you are calling at an inconvenient time your call will go to voicemail and I will either return your call or e-mail you- whichever you instruct me to do in the voice message.

E-mail me at dave@tiptopgem.com if you have a question or request and I will reply via e-mail unless you request that I call you back.

PPS- If you are not yet friends with me on Facebook please click on the link in the upper left corner of this newsletter, or just add "David Fortier" as a friend and I will accept you! Some gemstones and jewelry are only available on Facebook and you don't want to miss out!

update---update----update---

I am in Thailand right now as I type this- check out the amazing slices of tourmaline below- from Brazil!!!!


5.69 carats; olive green fades to yellow/brown, then clear, then intense pink, and a deep green center- $20 per carat


5.60 carats; pastel blue-Violet indicolite center with intense purplish-Pink exterior; magnificent example of the type with phantom crystals converging in the center- $28 per carat

4.63 cts, green to clear then pink and green again in the center, actually a good match to the 5.69 carat stone above if you like an earring pair. $20 per carat.

_____________________________________

As you might know by now shipping is always $10, and you can pay with a check or money order or credit card or in gold or silver. LOL. I do not take live animals for payment.

REMINDER-- these stones will ship from Thailand- allow 8-21 days in transit!

As always first come, first served for the newsletter stones. If two people want one stone, the time and date on the e-mail will determine the "winner".

Good luck!!!!

Tibetan andesine shown conclusively to be a fraud at Tucson meeting of the GILC

ISG at Tucson 2011: Day One...GILC

Day One of the ISG at Tucson 2011 events had members of our group at the GILC Conference held by the International Colored Gemstone Association. This outstanding event brings together many colored gemstone industry leaders for the purpose of discussing the current events and issues in the industry, and seeking to find viable solutions to the problems we face. Barbara and her staff absolutely hit another home run this year with another wonderful event.

We need to note that everyone signs a non-disclosure agreement upon entering. This is to help insure an open and honest discussion of the issues without fear of anyone getting quoted or miss-quoted based on hearsay from the meetings. With this in mind I do believe that there is important information that has come from today's event that can be shared with the members of the ISG Community.

The andesine issue took up the majority of the day. There were several speakers (names and topics confidential) who presented a variety of scientific reports. These were in general contradictory, convoluted, and in the first instance….pure fantasy. However, the report of the previously published (which is why I can talk about it) expedition by Dr. Peretti to the Tibet mines carried the day beyond any reasonable doubt in my opinion.

Dr. Peretti showed his previously discussed DVD video of his trip to the Tibet mines with well documented mine owner, Li Tong. The video proved the published claims that Li Tong’s crew were caught salting the ground around the claimed mine. The video showed graphically that when Dr. Peretti wanted to inspect a section of the mine area that should have contained andesine (if the claim was authentic) that Li Tong sent his staff ahead of Dr. Peretti and they could easily be seen dropping andesine on the group ahead of Dr. Peretti’s arrival. This was astounding and raised the one question that many asked:

"If Li Tong truly has an authentic Tibet andesine mine, why did he take Dr. Peretti to a location where his (Li Tong’s) crew had to “salt” the ground?"

The Peretti report was released at approximately the same time as the previously discussed report published by the Gem-A regarding an expedition to Tibet by the National Gem Testing Lab of China. The NGTC also visited mine locations owned by Li Tong. Their report makes three important points that directly support Dr. Peretti’s published findings. These points include:

• The NGTC group found a warehouse in Tibet with “hundreds of kilos” of “red feldspar” that tested to have been been "subjected to high temperature treatment with colouring elements added."
• Interviews by the Chinese NGTC group with local Tibetan citizens revealed that the local Tibetan people “had neither seen nor heard of red feldspar found in Tibet.” (direct contradiction to the Laurs/Hughes/Abduriyim report).
• The NGTC issued this statement: “In our opinion, the red feldspar samples that we collected and recovered from the supposed mining areas during our field investigations were deliberately planted on the ground surface and within loose surface soil.”

This opinion by the National Gem Testing Center of China was confirmed yesterday by the video evidence provided by Dr. Peretti in follow-up to his previously published report.

It should be noted that Li Tong, reported mine owner and leader of the Tibet andesine organization, was personally present…. and in the video…during the actual salting activities in the Peretti video.

One interesting question as to why these two expeditions found salted mines while the Laurs/Hughes/Abduriyim expedition reportedly found andesine under an “undisturbed bush” that prompted Richard Hughes to issue what we call his “Mission Accomplished” article. (The actual title of Hughes’ article is both inflammatory and insulting to our US President so we won’t repeat it.) One well-respected mine owner and ISG Community member raised the question: “Don’t they know how easy it is to take a piece of steel rebar and run a small hole into the ground under a bush, drop in a piece of andesine, and cover it up leaving no evidence of anything disturbed on the ground?”

That was the second profound question of the day, after the question why Li Tong took Peretti to a mine location that required his crew to salt the ground. Given that Li Tong was shown with his crew as they salted the mine, it is reasonable to assume that Mr. Li may have a piece of steel rebar sitting around somewhere.

The bottom line is that we have spoken to many miners who have evaluated these claims by the Laurs/Hughes/Abduriyim expedition report by Hughes, as well as Li Tong and the whole Tibet andesine organization, and just shake their heads that anyone could be so gullible as to believe these.

The high points of the day were all of the outstanding people we got to meet and greet. Due to the confidentiality agreement we will not name them here, but to everyone who we had the opportunity to meet at GILC we just say: Thank you. To all of you. It was an outstanding group.

On a final note: I have to once again congratulate the work of the ICA, their Board of Directors, and all of the members. I believe the ICA is the key organization to the healthy future of our colored gemstone industry.

More reports will be coming here on the events this week. Wish you were here with us. Maybe next year.

Reminder.......

The ISG would like to extend an open invitation to all members of the industry to attend our ISG Lab Update seminar at the Hotel Arizona on Friday, 4 February. We have important new information on a variety of issues and topics that you will need to know in the upcoming year. The ISG Lab Update is free to the industry and includes a free continental breakfast and/or coffee and drinks. We promise to be finished in time for you to return to your booth in time for the show start.

Robert James

President, International School of Gemology

ISG at Tucson 2011: Countdown to Tucson

ISG at Tucson 2011: Countdown to Tucson

by Robert James, President, International School of Gemology, ISG Newsletter, January 25, 2011

The Countdown to Tucson and the ISG at Tucson 2011 events continues. Today we want to highlight some special vendors at the GJX Show in downtown Tucson, along with a few important AGTA vendors that we missed last week.

The GJX Show is perhaps the most favored location for gemstone dealers based on the wide diversity of dealers there who come from every corner of the world. The isles are always crowded and business is always hot at the GJX show. Below are some of our favorite dealers who are to be found there. Don't miss any of these folks as they have established themselves with a solid reputation with the ISG. Mostly good....a few not so good. Here they are...

GJX in the Tent across from Tucson Convention Center

Ande Jewelry & Mineral Co. (GJX Show Booths: 1108, 1109, 1110)

Don’t miss this chance to see the people who started the whole damned andesine fiasco! Both Jewelry Television and Direct Shopping Network have listed Andegem as the source for the undisclosed, diffusion treated andesine that has rocked this industry. If you really want to have some fun, wait until Chris Rose walks by the Andegem booth. YIKES! Fireworks from Mr. Chen that are absolutely not to be missed. But check out the source of this andesine situation right here at the Andegem booth.

Beija-Flor Gems (GJX Show Booth: 1008)

Specializing in true Paraiba Tourmaline, Colorado Rhodochrosite, Red Beryl, Sapphires and more. Excellent resource for gemstones and great folks to work with. Bob is a long-time friend and important information resource for the ISG Community.

ColorFirst Co. (GJX Show Booth #1430)

A major supplier of colored gemstones from around the world who has helped us tremendously. Absolute committment to integrity and proper representation. Raja Shah and his folks have been highly instrumental in assisting the ISG in obtaining study specimens for our research. Excellent gem dealers that is a "must see" on every buyer list.

Ceylon Jewels Mfg. (Pvt) Ltd. (Booth: 608)

A great organization from Bangkok. Specializes in all types of gemstones and jewelry. Long-time friend of the ISG Community and supporter of ethics in the industry.

Chatham Created Gems Inc. (Booths: 137, 138)

Chatham wrote the book on modern lab created gemstones that raised them to an art form. The future of the gemstone industry includes created gemstones and Chatham Created Gems is your primary source. Plus, they are great people to work with.

Dust Devil Mining Co. (GJX Show Booth #4205)

Oregon Sunstone at its finest. These folks operate one of the most famous mines in Plush Oregon, and are the epitome of what is right about this industry. Absolutely do not miss meeting them and adding Oregon Sunstone to your product list.

Exotic Gemstones LLC (GJX Show Booth: 4206)

Jewelry designs in Oregon Sunstone that must be seen. In fact, my wife owns several designs by Karla and loves every one of them. I don’t come home from the Tucson Gem Shows without a new one. That’s about the highest recommendation I can give any vendor at Tucson. The design at left is from Karla's excellent collection.

Galaxy Gems (GJX Show Booth: 714)

Direct miners of a vast array of Brazilian gemstones. We once again include these good folks on our “recommended” list as a great source and good people to work with.

Gemfrance (GJX Show Booth: 914)

Everyone take what you have learned about diffusion treated andesine and go by this booth to see what is claimed as Congo Andesine. Just as a learning experience. To date Dr. Sikirdji has not been able to provide any proof that this Congo mine actually exists. In fact, based on his own claim that the mine is located in rebel held territory in the Congo, it is actually illegal for US consumers to purchase Gemfrance’s “Congo Andesine” as it is helping finance a terrorist organization……if Dr. Sikirdji’s claims are accurate.

John D. Dyer (GJX Show Booth: 1530)

This young man is absolutely one of the finest gemstone artists I have seen. Award winning designer and cutter who is at the leading edge of the future of this industry. You absolutely must visit his booth and see the future of this industry in both design and people.

Kaufman Enterprises (GJX Show Show Booth: 314)

Specializes in facet rough and custom cut gemstones of all kinds. Perenial favorite with the ISG Community members.

Kruess Optronic GmbH (GJX Show Booth: 1201)

World renowned resource for gemological equipment and supplies.

Litto Gems Co. (GJX Show Booth: 111)

We have no idea why these people are still claiming to sell “Tibet andesine” when the China National Gem Testing Lab folks, and others, have tagged it a hoax. What does it take to put a stop to this kind of thing? We don’t know. But we have many specimens from Litto gems and they all test as diffusion treated. It’s worth a stop to see more specimens of this material that the Peretti expedition called a very elaborate hoax.

Lowe Associates - Robt. P. Lowe, Jr. (GJX Show Booth: 205)

Excellent supplier of Brazilian gemstones as well as other world sources. We hear a lot of good things about these folks for quality and integrity. Repeat listing on our recommended vendor list and good people to work with based on a lot of customer reports.

OTF Gems - Org. Tavares Filho (GJX Show Booth: 3010)

One of our closest friends and supporters from Brazil. Specializes in Brazilian gemstones as well as exceptionally knowledgeable in the gemstone industry. Wonderful resource for our research and long time dealer and friend of the ISG Community.

Perlas del Mar de Cortez (GJX Show Booth: 1221)

Mexican round cultured pearls and half pearls. Do no miss the opportunity to see the Mexican produced pearls that are of the highest quality. These folks have helped us with our ISG Pearls Course materials and study specimens for years. Good people to work with and outstanding pearl products.

R. W. Osmond & Associates (GJX Show Booth: 235)

These Aussies specialize in some of the finest chrysoprase and opals you will find anywhere in the world, and at excellent prices. Outstanding group that we have enjoyed working with for a couple of years now. Don’t miss them as they offer unique gems, carvings and other items that you will not find elsewhere.

Rough & Ready Gems, Inc. (GJX Show Booth: 700)

Unique gemstone briolettes and ultrasonic drilling services. Great people to work with and repeat favorite of the ISG Community.

Tucker Gems/Sid Tucker, L.L.C. (GJX Show Booth: 236)

Solid wholesale resource for colored gemstones. Return members of our recommended list and long-time members of the ISG Community.

Tairona Co. (GJX Show Booth #410)

Imports a wonderful array of colored gemstones specializing in emeralds, sapphires and tourmalines. Paul is a long-time friend of the ISG Community and our efforts to further integrity in the industry. It is wonderful to work with folks who still believe in the foundations of this industry where honesty and integrity are first and foremost in business.

Did we miss you? Let us know. We have a special list coming out next week for anyone we missed. Just let us know.

OOPS.....in our AGTA Favorite Vendor listing we missed the following:

Taylorcorp. (AGTA GemFair Booth #1110)

Wonderful source for colored gemstones with a world class reputation for quality and integrity. Long time supporter of ethics in this industry and of the ISG Community. More important, a fantastic resource for colored gemstones that you will want to make sure is on your list.

American Sapphire Company (AGTA GemFair Booth #526)

Many reasons to be sure and see these folks. They produce outstanding natural sapphires from the US. Rare opportunity to obtain local gemstones from local mines that will increase your revenue streams in profits and beauty.

Glenn Preus, G.G. (AGTA GemFair Booth #525)

Colored gemstone supplier with experience and knowledge that many will find refreshing. Long-time supporter of the ISG Community and our efforts to increase ethics in the industry.

Perlen Yukie U.S.A. (AGTA Booth# 625)

Specializes in Japanese Freshwater Pearls from Lake Kasumigaura, Japan, as well as Cultured Akoya Pearls and Cultured Akoya Keshi. Great friend of the ISG Community and supporter of ethics in the industry.

GemstoneTreatmentReport.com website becomes free information resource for gemstone industry. ISG opens the GTR database to assist world wide industry

GemstoneTreatmentReport.com website becomes free information resource for gemstone industry.

ISG opens the GTR database to assist the world wide industry.

San Antonio, TX, September 1, 2010: Realizing the need for a free information clearing house for gemstone treatments and lab created gemstone identification, the International School of Gemology announced today the restructuring of their Gemstone Treatment Report website to become the industry’s only complete, open-sharing internet database of gemological research and reporting on gemstone treatments.

Located at GemstoneTreatmentReport, this website is now available as a free service to anyone in the gemstone industry for the study, reference, and sharing of gemological information relating to the research and reporting of the latest in gemstone treatment identification methods. This information clearinghouse is being made possible by members of the world wide ISG Community who are responsible for the research and identification of the dyefusion treatment of gemstones such as andesine, tourmaline, and others. The GTR data base currently covers the identification of over 50 of the most often seen gemstone treatments as well lab grown gemstones with ongoing research to provide the industry with the latest updates available free through this single source website.

The Gemstone Treatment Report actively seeks sharing and information contributions from other gemological organizations, laboratories, schools, dealers, retail jewelers, consumers, and any other interested party who has information to share and contribute to the information database.

The Gemstone Treatment Report was originally a production of the International School of Gemology’s Registered Gemologist course program titled: Identification of Synthetic Gemstones. Due to the urgent need for quality information regarding gemstone treatments, the ISG has opened this database to the industry as a free support service. All Gemstone Treatment Report subscribers will be given the option of a subscription refund or other consolations. For more information please contact the ISG office at 210.877.5816 or email to isg@schoolofgemology.com.

To obtain a PDF copy of this release please click on this link: GTR Press Release

FIPP2010

Sorry, this is just a space filler until I have a chance to report -- but the gist is that the feira was slow.

20th International Precious Stones Fair, Teófilo Otoni, Minas Gerais, Brazil, August 24-28, 2010

20th International Precious Stones Fair

22nd Open Precious Stones Fair

Locale: Clube Palmeiras, Teófilo Otoni, Minas Gerais, Brazil

24-28 August 2010

"The largest international precious stones fair in Latin America"

Registrations: http://www.geabrasil.com/inscricao.php

20ª Feira Internacional de Pedras Preciosas, Teófilo Otoni, MG, 24-28 agosto 2010

20ª FEIRA INTERNACIONAL DE PEDRAS PRECIOSAS

22ª FEIRA LIVRE DE PEDRAS PRECIOSAS

Local: Clube Palmeiras, Teófilo Otoni, Minas Gerais, Brasil

24-28 de agosto de 2010

"A MAIOR FEIRA INTERNACIONAL DE PEDRAS PRECIOSAS DA AMÉRICA LATINA"

Inscrições: http://www.geabrasil.com/inscricao.php

Daniel Katz of Australia has something to add to the GAAJ story -- their side:

Daniel Katz of Australia has something to add to the GAAJ story -- their side:

More to come but in the meantime this has been GAAJ official response:

On Tue, May 25, 2010 at 11:28 AM, Daniel Katz wrote:

GAAJ-ZENHOKYO

Sirs,

Please explain :

http://mdn.mainichi.jp/mdnnews/news/...na014000c.html

" Major gem company manipulated color standards to overestimate diamond quality

A leading gemology company engaged in diamond grading had deliberately overestimated diamond qualities by manipulating color evaluation standards, it has been learned.

The Gemological Association of All Japan (GAAJ) had been using the manipulated color standards between late February in 2007 and late October in 2008, affecting some 338,000 diamonds that were evaluated during the period, industry insiders told the Mainichi."

I would appreciate your quick reply

Daniel F Katz
www.DiamondImports.com.au

The Response

Dear Mr. Daniel Katz,

Thank you for your inquiry.

We are attaching the letter we sent to all our customers as response to the newspaper article.

We hope it will answer any questions raised after reading the article.

Please feel free to contact us if you have any more questions.

Sincerely yours,

Nadia Goldstein
Executive secretary
Nadia Goldstein
Zenhokyo Israel

The Letter

17th May 2010

To our customers,

Our view of MAINICHI Newspapers reports

Gemmological Association of All Japan Co.Ltd.
President Natsuki TAKAHASHI

On 15th and 16th May 2010, MAINICHI Newspapers reported that GAAJ-ZENHOKYO laboratory engaged company-wide in “manipulating colour standards to overestimate diamond quality”.

This press report is definitely not based on true facts. However, I
personally, as well as the company “Gemmological Association of All Japan Co. Ltd” are sincerely sorry for any inconvenience and anxiety that were caused to our customers- inconvenience and anxiety which were certainly not of our doing.

GAAJ-ZENHOKYO laboratory hereby announces that there is nothing fraudulent in our diamond grading, as publicised in the newspaper, and we have been, as always,performing fair grading at our laboratory.

We are determined to clarify the facts of the matter and will devote all our efforts to do it.

In Japan, diamond grading is performed based on the standards employed by GIA, and diamonds are evaluated on the so-called “4Cs” – cut, colour, clarity and carat.

Colour grading is performed based on the system using the masterstones approved by JJA/AGL, which was created by reference to GIA masterstones and was implemented in September 1996.

The system aims to prevent variations in colour grading among the
AGL (Association of Gemmological Laboratories Japan) members by letting the
members possess and properly operate the colour-masterstones, which are approved by Japan Jewellery Association (JJA) and AGL after consultation between them.

Diamonds are graded by highly experienced and trained expert graders.

However, there are always border stones (i.e. stones that are situated between one grade and the next).

Clarity and colour evaluation especially, cannot be quantified or mechanically gauged,so the grading results largely depend on the experience and subjective judgment of the grader.

GAAJ-ZENHOKYO laboratory holds regular meetings to match up individual
evaluation basis to eliminate variation between graders and branches.

The “direction” as described in the news report was a memorandum record of one of such regular meetings.

As it is, we had been receiving several comments that our results on colour gradingwere too strict compared to other gemmological laboratories belonging to AGL, whichraised our graders concern.

After an annual checking up session for diamond grading held by AGL, it was learned that the grading of GAAJ-ZENHOKYO laboratory traditionally tended to downgrade diamond colour that sat very close to the borders.

Atone of our regular meetings as mentioned above, we discussed correction of this tendency.

We systematically researched the trend of GIA or AGL member laboratories
on colour grading, and kept matching up and exchanging information between our expert graders.

As a result, we reached the conclusion that our grading determination on
borders should be slightly corrected, as stated in the in-house document.

The content of the memorandum therefore was summarised for our graders to show the correction range for those graders who tended to downgrade, in order to improve the operation of the approved masterstones with the border stones.

It was definitely not instruction to uniformly upgrade stones by half to one grade.

That regular meeting was held to eliminate variation on diamond grading between GAAJ-ZENHOKYO laboratory and other AGL members, in conformity with the approved masterstone system, and to seek consistent and uniform grading results between our expert graders.

Never did we aim to give “loose” or “favourable” grading results for our own interest as described in the news report.

Again please accept our sincere apologies for any inconvenience caused as a result of the news report.

We reaffirm our resolute stance against the report that is in no way based on true facts.

Meanwhile, we are making extreme efforts to prove the report as false and to restore confidence in the industry.

Your understanding is most truly appreciated.

Gemological Association of All Japan (GAAJ) appraisal company accused of overvaluing diamonds resigns from industry association

Update: May 23, 2010

Gem appraisal company accused of overvaluing diamonds resigns from industry association

AGL directors at a news conference following an emergency meeting on Friday in Tokyo's Taito Ward. (Mainichi)

The Mainichi Daily News, May 23, 2010

A leading gem appraisal company that is accused of deliberately overestimating the color qualities of diamonds has given up its membership in the national gem industry association responsible for setting diamond grading standards.

The company, called the Gemological Association of All Japan (GAAJ), submitted a request for termination of its membership, which was accepted at an emergency board of directors' meeting on Friday of the industry association, called the Association of Gemological Laboratories Japan (AGL).

The reasons given for the termination included "creation and leaking of an internal document of dubious content," in reference to guidelines for artificially bumping up the "color" ranks of diamonds in an alleged bid to increase their price.

During questioning by AGL directors, the GAAJ admitted to creating the document, which advised "correcting" color values of diamonds a half to a full grade closer to "transparent" than they should have been based on standards set in part by the AGL.

The AGL has decided to offer free re-appraisals on request for diamonds the GAAJ appraised from February 2007 to October 2008. A diamond's accompanying appraisal certificate should show a date within that range to be eligible. The AGL has requested the unique serial numbers of the relevant appraisal certificates from the GAAJ.

Link: http://mdn.mainichi.jp/mdnnews/news/20100522p2a00m0na005000c.html

Gemological Association of All Japan intentionally and fraudulently manipulated diamond color grades to over-estimate quality

Why am I posting this news article below?

I am so doing because I noticed that GAAJ was publishing -- excuse the expression -- crap about "paraíba" tourmalines, research reports (what a joke those were) about andesine, and other stones.

This article goes to the heart of that lab's total lack of credibility.

Major gem company (GAAJ) manipulated color standards to overestimate diamond quality

This chart shows how the GAAJ manipulated its color evaluation of diamonds, with the left column showing grades based on the industry's standard, while the arrows and the right column indicating the result of manipulated grades. The higher the grades are, the more clarity the diamonds have.

by The Mainichi Daily News, May 22, 2010

A leading gemology company engaged in diamond grading had deliberately overestimated diamond qualities by manipulating color evaluation standards, it has been learned.

The Gemological Association of All Japan (GAAJ) had been using the manipulated color standards between late February in 2007 and late October in 2008, affecting some 338,000 diamonds that were evaluated during the period, industry insiders told the Mainichi.

The Association of Gemological Laboratories Japan (AGL), which is responsible for the industry's uniform evaluation standards and to which GAAJ belongs, is poised to question GAAJ over the suspected manipulation at an early date.

The GAAJ, however, has refuted the allegations, saying, "We only rectified deviations of our in-house evaluation standards."

According to industry sources, the GAAJ discussed manipulating diamond color evaluation standards during a technical meeting at its Tokyo headquarters on Feb. 24, 2007. Two days later, the association's board officially decided to go ahead with the manipulation so that color evaluation of diamonds weighing 1-carat (0.2 grams) or over would be upgraded by a half to one grade compared to the industry's uniform standards, and that of diamonds weighing less than 1-carat would be upgraded by a half grade.

Following the decision, the association started overestimating diamonds at the Tokyo headquarters as well as its Osaka and Fukuoka branch offices.

In October 2008, a jewelry shop in Tokyo reported to AGL that the evaluation conducted by GAAJ's Fukuoka office was wrong, prompting AGL to re-evaluate the questionable diamonds. As a result, it turned out that GAAJ had overestimated diamond quality in terms of color.

GAAJ is one of the top three gemology companies in Japan that boast a combined 70 to 80 percent share of diamond evaluation in the domestic market. The evaluation certificates such companies issue are used to value diamonds retailed at major department stores and other outlets across the country.

If the color evaluation of a diamond is upgraded by one grade, the retail price can rise tens of thousands of yen to over 100,000 yen higher. As a result of the GAAJ's manipulation, retailers and consumers were effectively made to purchase overpriced diamonds.

"The more highly appreciated diamonds are than their true value, the more profits import companies can make. The GAAJ probably tried to pick up more orders for evaluation by overestimating diamond quality," said a former employee at GAAJ's Fukuoka office.

In Japan, evaluation certificates are only issued for diamonds, specifying their weight, cut and other qualities. The certificates are issued by private companies and their appraisal method does not entail official attestation. International evaluation standards are based on those set by private organizations in Europe and the United States, and Japanese companies mostly adopt the method used in the U.S.

The most commonly used evaluation items are the so-called "4Cs" -- cut, color, clarity and carat -- of diamonds. Only carats can be mechanically gauged, while other qualities -- color in particular -- ultimately depend on appraisers' senses and are subject to varying evaluation.

The credibility and fairness of evaluation certificates are not only important to consumers but also to retailers. AGL and other organizations set uniform color standards in the 1990s by creating "standard gem sets" in collaboration with leading U.S. evaluation organizations and distributing them to its member companies. However, since consumers cannot assess fine details in quality, they have no choice but to believe in dealers' claims that they have appraised the diamonds based on the standard gems.

Link to article: http://mdn.mainichi.jp/mdnnews/news/20100515p2a00m0na014000c.html

Oregon sunstone and treated feldspar from Mexico are easily identified by Raman photoluminescence: Rossman and McClure's findings in error

ISG: The story of the ISG Raman Microscope scans of andesine.

Numerous errors in claims and reports abound throughout the industry!

At the recent Sinkankas Symposium on Gem Feldspar, Dr. George Rossman posted up a slide (you see at left) of one of our composite Raman scan images and declared our findings to be incorrect.....based on a quote he attributed to us that we never made. Indeed, Dr. Rossman has never seen any of our study specimen group (in spite of our offering same) and has not actually tested any of our specimens. And yet, he incorrectly made the declaration that we were wrong in our findings.

The problem: what he claimed we said wrong, we did not say at all. What we did say...he totally ignored.

Confused? So are we! This brings to light the problem with this entire andesine fiasco, certain members of the industry have continually tried to protect the alleged perpetrators of the andesine problem at the expense of truth.

Since Dr. Rossman chose the Symposium at the GIA to present his case without our having the opportunity for rebuttal of his statements, we feel it only fair that we have the opportunity to do so here

We will first share with everyone what our andesine study group actually looks like...or at least part of it. Rather than allowing the alleged perpetrators of the andesine fiasco to supply our specimens, the ISG has purchased hundreds of specimens on the open world markets. We have sought out mine owners from the various mines to obtain proper specimens from as many locations as possible, received specimen submissions from consumers for testing, and we have paid for virtually all of our other specimens so that our research will remain independent and without encumberance to outside influence. Pictures of just a few are below including the inbound shipping envelopes we maintain for records.

With the help of many consumers who wanted answers, the ISG obtained an Enwave Raman Microscope that we had custom built with a Meiji Techno MX microscope. We proceeded to do over 1000 Raman scans of the specimens including specimens from all origins and all colors. The image you see at the top of this page is only a single composite of two scans. We thought you would be interested to see the whole ISG Raman Story.

We wish to acknowledge and thank Marty Haske of Adamas Gemological Laboratory for his research and website covering the topic of Raman Photoluminescence. Mr. Haske's work proved pivotal in our research to identify the diffusion treatment of andesine. Here is how it worked......

In the image at left you see a composite of many scans done on Oregon Sunstone from as many mines as we could gather. We have literally thousands of specimens of Oregon Sunstone in our office, and the Raman Photoluminescence scan you see at left is classic for all.

Then, we tested a number of the Chinese and Mexican feldspar specimens.

At left is a composite image of the scans from the Mexican yellow feldspar and Chinese red andesine. The Chinese andesine includes stones claimed to be from Tibet, Mongolia, and the Congo.

As you can see, we did not rely on the peaks as claimed at the Sinkankas Symposium, but rather the whole of the Raman Photoluminescence reaction.

With over 4 kilos of Casa Grande/Chihuahua Mexican material, and several hundred Chinese andesine, the results we got were repeatable, and verifiable in stone, after stone, after stone, after stone....you get the idea.

Once we compared the three groups, we found that indeed the Oregon Sunstone had a unique, predictable and repeatable Raman Photoluminescense result, and that it was significantly different than either the Mexican or Chinese andesine.

In all cases, the Mexican and Chinese material all tested out the same.

Which....was our first report: That the Chinese andesine tested the same as the Mexican andesine with the Raman.

But we did not stop there.

We obtained transparent plagioclase feldspar specimens from as many sources as we could find and verify. These included: Madagascar, Oregon, Mexico, Tibet, Mongolia, Congo, India, and Tanzania.

As you can see at left, each source had a unique Raman Photoluminescent reaction with the exception of the Mexican and Chinese. These were identical.

This was the crux of our Raman reports, and our findings that the Chinese andesine tested the same as the Mexican feldspar. Did it actually originate from Mexico? Who really cares? We don't. But apparently someone at Caltech and DSN cares. However, as the California Appeals Court ruled in the past few days, the origin of the material is not as important as the selling of the diffusion treated andesine without disclosure. The origin is of little or no importance based on the findings of the court in deciding against Direct Shopping Network in their lawsuit.

But there is one step further we need to go in this ISG Raman Story....

"The GIA is currently unable to separate diffusion treated red Tibetan andesine from natural red Oregon Sunstone," GIA Executive at the Sinkankas Symposium

Also at the Sinkankas Symposium a high ranking GIA executive made a presentation statement that you read above. The GIA cannot separate the natural red Oregon Sunstone from the diffusion treated Chinese material. Regardless of the refractive index differences that we have already demonstrated, the Raman Photoluminescense can.....well, I will let you see for yourself.

At left is a Raman Photoluminesence composite of a Plush Oregon Sunstone and a Tibet red diffused sunstone.

Can you separate these two?

Just for arguments sake, we performed a set of scans on Plush Oregon sunstone and a tray of Mexican yellow feldspar and Chinese red diffused andesine.

Again, the image speaks for itself.

At the risk of appearing flippant and/or a bit sarcastic, I will tell the following true story......

I gave my 8 year old son 2 red stones and had him perform scans with our Raman Microscope. He was able to separate the Oregon Sunstone and the Chinese diffusion treated andesine by Raman Photoluminescense. He has no idea how it works technically, but the Enwave Raman and support software has advanced to the point that even an 8 year old can separate natural Oregon Sunstone and diffusion treated Chinese andesine. Seriously!

With the ruling of the California Appeals Court that says Direct Shopping Network failed to prove a prima facie case on any of their accusations against myself and Interweave this is only the end of one chapter in this never ending story.

The next part goes to Andegem and the AGTA who DSN blames for all of this. Andegem for supplying it, and AGTA for certifying it as all natural and untreated. We have implored both of these organizations to step up and do the right thing before lawsuits and court rulings began. They failed to do so.

Perhaps they will now since DSN seems to be willing to throw both of them under the bus.

But that.....is another story.

Robert James

President, International School of Gemology